How to Make a Leather Crossbody Bag

Creating your own accessories offers a unique way to express your personal style, and a leather crossbody bag is a perfect starting point. This project combines practical skills with timeless fashion, resulting in a durable and stylish bag that you can be proud to carry. It’s a rewarding process that allows you to work with a beautiful natural material and create something truly one-of-a-kind.

This guide on how to make a leather crossbody bag will walk you through every stage, from selecting your materials to the final stitch. Whether you’re a complete beginner or have some experience with crafting, these detailed instructions are designed to make the process approachable and enjoyable. You will learn fundamental leatherworking techniques and end up with a functional accessory that reflects your craftsmanship.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

To make a leather crossbody bag, you will need the following tools and materials:

Leather:

Choose a high-quality leather in the weight and color of your choice. For this project, we recommend using vegetable-tanned leather.

Cutting Mat:

Protect your work surface with a cutting mat or thick cardboard.

Ruler or Measuring Tape:

Use these to measure and mark your leather for cutting. A metal ruler is recommended for more precise cuts.

Leather Shears or Rotary Cutter:

These will make cutting your leather easier and more accurate. Make sure they are sharp to avoid tearing the leather.

Hole Punch:

Choose a size that matches the thickness of your thread for consistent stitching. You can also use an awl if you prefer.

Thread and Needle:

Use a strong, waxed thread in a color that complements your leather. Choose a needle with a large eye that can accommodate your thread.

Leather Edge Beveler:

This tool helps to smooth out the edges of your cut leather for a more polished finish.

Rubber Mallet:

A rubber mallet is a great tool for pounding in rivets and snaps without damaging your leather.

Leather Finish:

Use a leather finish or conditioner to protect your project from water damage and to give it a professional-looking shine.

8 Simple Step-by-step Guidelines on How to Make a Leather Crossbody Bag:

Step 1: Create and Cut Your Pattern

The foundation of your bag is a well-made pattern. Start by drawing your design on cardstock or heavy paper. For a simple crossbody bag, you will need a main body piece (e.g., 20 inches long by 8 inches wide), which will be folded to create the front, back, and flap. You will also need two small gusset or side pieces (if desired, for added depth), two small tabs for the D-rings, and a long strip for the shoulder strap (e.g., 1 inch wide by 45-50 inches long).

Once you are happy with your paper pattern, carefully lay it onto the flesh side (the rougher side) of your leather. Use an awl or a silver leather-marking pen to trace the outlines of each piece. Ensure you arrange the pattern pieces efficiently to minimize waste. Using a sharp rotary cutter or craft knife and a steel ruler, carefully cut out all your leather pieces on a self-healing mat. Take your time with this step, as straight, clean cuts are crucial for a professional-looking final product.

Step 2: Prepare the Leather Pieces

With your pieces cut, it’s time for initial preparation. If you are using natural vegetable-tanned leather and wish to add color, now is the time to apply your leather dye. Use a wool dauber or a soft cloth to apply the dye in even, circular motions. Let it dry completely as per the manufacturer’s instructions, which may take several hours. Once dry, apply a leather finisher or sealant to protect the color and give the leather a slight sheen. This step prevents the dye from rubbing off on clothing.

Next, you will want to finish the edges that will be visible on the final bag, such as the front edge of the flap. Use an edge beveler to gently round off the sharp corners on both the grain and flesh sides of the leather. Following this, apply a small amount of water or gum tragacanth to the beveled edge and use an edge burnisher or a piece of canvas to rub it briskly back and forth. This action creates heat and friction, smoothing and polishing the edge into a hard, glossy finish that looks professional and prevents fraying.

Step 3: Install the Closure Hardware

Attaching the closure now is much easier than doing it after the bag is assembled. We will use a magnetic snap for this guide. Determine the center point on the inside of the bag’s flap and on the front panel where the snap will sit. On the flap piece, use the backing plate of the snap to mark the positions for the prongs. Make two small slits with your craft knife, push the prongs of the snap through from the grain side to the inside, place the backing plate over them, and bend the prongs outward to secure it.

For the other half of the snap on the main body, repeat the process. Ensure your alignment is perfect by temporarily folding the bag as it will be when finished and marking the corresponding spot. To reinforce the area and prevent the leather from stretching over time, you can glue a small scrap piece of leather on the flesh side where the snap will be installed before cutting the slits. This simple step adds durability to a high-stress area of your bag.

Step 4: Attach the D-Ring Tabs

The D-rings will serve as the anchor points for your crossbody strap. Take the two small rectangular tabs you cut earlier. Skive the ends of the tabs if the leather is thick, as this will reduce bulk where they are folded. Apply contact cement to the flesh side of one end of each tab. Fold the tab in half over the straight edge of a D-ring, pressing the glued ends together firmly. You should now have two loops, each holding a D-ring.

Position these tabs on the upper back corners of the main body piece, just below where the flap will fold over. The D-rings should be facing outwards. To secure them permanently, you’ll stitch them in place. Use a stitching groover to create a stitch line, then use your pricking irons and mallet to punch stitching holes through both the tab and the back panel of the bag. Stitch the tabs securely using a saddle stitch for maximum strength. This ensures the strap anchors can withstand the weight of the bag and its contents.

Step 5: Glue the Main Body

Before you begin the main stitching, it’s helpful to glue the bag together to hold everything in place. If you are making a simple fold-over bag without side gussets, apply a thin, even layer of contact cement along the side and bottom edges of what will be the inside front and back panels. Be careful to apply the adhesive only where the seams will be, typically about 1/4 inch from the edge. Let the cement dry until it’s tacky to the touch.

Carefully fold the main body piece, aligning the edges precisely. Press the glued edges together firmly, working from the bottom up. The contact cement will create an instant bond, holding the bag’s shape while you prepare for sewing. If you are including side gussets, you would apply glue to the edges of the gussets and the corresponding edges of the front and back panels and carefully press them together. This pre-assembly gluing is key to preventing the leather from shifting while you are punching your stitching holes.

Step 6: Punch the Stitching Holes

With the bag glued together, it’s time to prepare for sewing. This is one of the most critical steps for a clean, professional finish. Take your stitching groover and run it along the seams you are about to sew, creating a shallow channel for the stitches. This groove helps protect the thread from wear and tear and makes the stitching line look neater. Set your groover’s guide to about 1/8 inch from the edge for a standard seam allowance.

Place the grooved edge of your bag on a punching block or a piece of scrap leather to protect your tools. Take your stitching chisels or pricking irons, place them in the groove, and use a mallet to punch holes through all layers of leather. Ensure the chisel is perfectly perpendicular to the leather surface to create straight holes. Work your way along all the seams, carefully aligning the last prong of the chisel in the last hole you punched to maintain even spacing.

Step 7: Saddle Stitch the Bag

The saddle stitch is a traditional hand-sewing technique prized for its strength and durability. To begin, cut a length of waxed thread that is about four times the length of the seam you intend to sew. Thread a needle onto each end of the thread. To secure the needles, pass the tip through the center of the thread a couple of inches from the end and pull the long end of the thread to create a knot against the needle’s eye. This prevents the needles from slipping off as you work.

Clip your bag into a stitching pony to hold it securely, leaving your hands free. Start at one end of the seam, pushing one needle through the first hole. Pull the thread through until you have an equal length on both sides. Then, pass the left needle through the second hole. Before pulling it tight, pass the right needle through the same hole, from the opposite side, making sure not to pierce the thread that is already there. Pull both threads tight simultaneously. Repeat this two-needle process for every hole until you reach the end of the seam.

Step 8: Make the Strap and Finish

To complete your bag, you need to create the adjustable strap. Take the long strip of leather you cut earlier and finish its edges using the same beveling and burnishing technique you used on the flap. Attach one swivel clip to one end of the strap by folding the leather over the clip’s bar and securing it with stitching or a rivet. Thread the free end of the strap through the slider, then through the second swivel clip. Finally, loop the end back through the slider and secure it to the slider’s central bar with another line of stitching or a rivet.

Your adjustable strap is now complete. Clip it onto the D-rings you attached to the bag. Give your entire bag a final inspection. Trim any stray threads by cutting them close to the leather and melting the ends carefully with a lighter to prevent unraveling. Use a clean cloth to wipe down the leather, removing any marks or dust from the construction process. Your custom leather crossbody bag is now finished and ready to use.

Following these steps on how to make a leather crossbody bag, you can now create your own unique and personalized bag to use or even give as a special gift to someone.
But don’t limit yourself to just making crossbody bags!

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: How Do I Choose the Right Leather for a Bag?

A1: The choice of leather significantly impacts the final look and feel of your bag. For a structured crossbody bag, a vegetable-tanned leather of 2-3 oz (0.8-1.2 mm) thickness is ideal because it holds its shape well and develops a beautiful patina over time. If you prefer a softer, more flexible bag, a chrome-tanned leather, like garment leather or a soft-tempered upholstery leather would be a better choice. Always check the leather’s temper (its stiffness or softness) and consider how it will behave when folded and stitched.

Q2: What Is the Best Way to Care for a Handmade Leather Bag?

A2: Proper care will ensure your leather bag lasts for years. Keep it away from prolonged direct sunlight and moisture. If it gets wet, blot it with a soft cloth and let it air dry naturally. Periodically apply a quality leather conditioner to keep the material supple and prevent it from drying out and cracking. For vegetable-tanned leather, conditioning will also enrich the patina. Store your bag in a dust bag when not in use to protect it from dirt and scratches.

Q3: Can I Make This Bag With a Sewing Machine?

A3: While it is possible to use a sewing machine, it requires a heavy-duty model designed for upholstery or leather. A standard home sewing machine will struggle with the thickness of the leather and may result in skipped stitches or broken needles. You will also need a specific leather needle, which has a wedge-shaped point designed to pierce the material cleanly. Using a walking-foot attachment is highly recommended as it helps feed the thick layers of leather through the machine evenly.

Q4: My Stitches Look Uneven. How Can I Improve Them?

A4: Achieving perfect stitches takes practice. The most common reasons for uneven stitching are inconsistent hole spacing and uneven tension. Ensure you use stitching chisels or pricking irons to mark your holes uniformly. When saddle stitching, focus on pulling both threads with equal force after each stitch to maintain consistent tension. Also, be consistent in your process, for example, always passing the left needle through first, then the right. Using a stitching pony to hold your work steady will free up both hands, allowing you to focus on your stitching technique.

Conclusion

Making your own leather crossbody bag is an immensely satisfying project that blends creativity with practical skill. By following these steps, you have transformed a simple piece of leather into a functional and stylish accessory that is uniquely yours. You’ve learned fundamental techniques like cutting, edge finishing, hardware setting, and saddle stitching—skills that are the foundation of leathercraft.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with different designs, colors, and hardware on your next project. Each piece you create will improve your skills and deepen your appreciation for this timeless craft. We hope this guide on how to make a leather crossbody bag has inspired you to pick up your tools and start creating. Enjoy the process and wear your handmade bag with pride.